Cultured Krakow, Poland’s former royal capital, really is a thing of beauty. Its perfectly preserved heart, which has the largest medieval square in Europe, is a riot of Renaissance and baroque architecture, all in harmony. Having escaped destruction during the Second World War — mainly because the Nazis used the city as their regional headquarters — Krakow was able to hold on to its marvels.
Between the Old Town, the royal Wawel district and the old Jewish quarter of Kazimierz, the city overflows with things to do on a city break. Its buzzing nightlife helps to make it one of Poland’s most visited cities, and its cheap and efficient public transport system of buses and trams makes it a doddle to get around. Expect a few quirks among the cultural offerings: not many cities have museums devoted to cats and pinball, but that’s Krakow for you.
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What to do
Rynek Glowny, Krakow’s medieval market square, is the classic starting point — and you’ll be back repeatedly to take in all its sights. The most magnificent is Sukiennice*, an enormous Cloth Hall that was the focus of trade from the Middle Ages onwards. Its renaissance arcades house jewellery, craft and souvenir stalls and you can watch all the action from the café terrace under the porticoes. Pop into St Mary’s Basilica and gawp at the extraordinary blue vaulted nave and listen out for the hourly bugle call coming from one of its two towers, the earliest written mention of which dates back to 1392.
For a glimpse into Krakow’s royal past, venture towards the Vistula river to the 14th-century Wawel Castle* for a guided tour through its royal private apartments and state rooms. It’s next to the 14th-century Wawel Cathedral, which is nearly as impressive as St Mary’s. Buy tickets to see the entire structure, including its crypts, or pop into the main section for free.
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Just to the south is Kazimierz, whose 700-year-old Jewish tradition was nearly wiped out by the Nazis. It’s since been revived and is now, happily, one of the liveliest districts in the city. Discover its Jewish heritage by visiting the museum within the striking Old Synagogue and swing by the Ethnographic Museum* in Kazimierz Town Hall. One of the most compelling sights is Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory across the Vistula — instantly recognisable to anyone who has seen Schindler’s List. Its museum does a riveting job of telling the story of wartime Krakow as well as the efforts made by Oskar Schindler to save many of the city’s Jews.
Where to stay
The choice of accommodation is dizzying, from trendy hostels and reliable chains to smart boutique hotels and restored palaces. Some of Poland’s finest hotels are in Krakow, many in elegant townhouses and palaces dating from the 14th to the 19th centuries in the cobbled streets of the Old Town. Hotel Stary*, just off the market square, is at the top end of the luxury scale; a stylishly designed 19th-century palace with a rooftop restaurant and cosy vaulted ceilings.
The stately Bonerowski Palace* is in an enviable spot right on the Rynek Plowny with views of the Cloth Hall. On the way to Wawel Castle on Krakow’s oldest street, Hotel Copernicus* has been around since the 16th century and is still the favoured place of princes and presidents.
Food and drink
Krakow’s food scene is constantly evolving and expanding, with a growing number of ethnic cuisines turning up alongside traditional Polish restaurants. The Old Town has the biggest and broadest choice of restaurants, from simple canteens to upmarket restaurants in sumptuous surroundings under vaulted ceilings. Be sure to try the city’s most famous dish, pierogi — moreish dumplings filled with meat, mushrooms, cheese or potato. Jama Michalika and Milkbar Tomasza in the Old Town are good bets for pierogi and other hearty Polish dishes.
For the best introduction to Krakow’s favourite street food, the pizza-like zapiekanka, queue up at the stalls in the old meat market in Plac Nowy in Kazimierz. Here you’ll find this toasted open baguette smothered in gooey cheese and sauces — a perfect snack after touring the many bars and brewpubs crammed into Kazimierz. You’ll also be close to Kazimierz’s kosher and Jewish restaurants, one of which, Hamsa, offers an enormous Middle Eastern buffet on weekend mornings.
Don’t miss
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The Cloth Hall isn’t just a place to shop and have a coffee. Head into its lower level to Rynek Underground for an imaginative multimedia museum that takes you back to medieval Krakow through reconstructed market stalls. Upstairs, meanwhile, is the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art, a small but engrossing window into Polish life seen through the eyes of artists.
From Cloth Hall you’ll spot the Town Hall Tower — all that’s left of the original 14th-century Town Hall. Climb the 110 steps for sweeping views of the market square and the city beyond.
When the Austrians tore down the fortifications that had encircled Krakow until the 19th century, locals turned this ring into Planty, an inviting public park. It’s topped with the 14th-century St Florian’s Gate and the hulking 15th-century Barbican, and is filled with neat gardens along with a statue commemorating one of Krakow’s most famous sons, Pope John Paul II.
There are also a few day trips that shouldn’t be missed during a stay in Krakow. One is the wondrous underground world of the Wieliczka Salt Mine*, 12km from the city. For seven centuries it was one of Poland’s chief salt mines; nowadays its subterranean network of galleries, chambers and even a chapel is an engrossing and entertaining tour. The other must-see is Auschwitz-Birkenau, a sobering and harrowing but utterly necessary experience to witness the horrors of the Holocaust.
Know before you go
Poland uses the zloty and most places in Krakow take cards. If you’re paying a restaurant or bar bill by cash and you’re expecting change, don’t say “thank you” when handing over money. The waiter will assume you’re saying “keep the change” and will do precisely that.
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Despite Krakow’s reputation for nightlife, it’s illegal to drink in public in Poland except in designated drinking areas. Police can be quite strict about public drunkenness, so bear this in mind after you’ve had a few rounds at the nearest vodka bar.
Male visitors to sacred Jewish sites, including synagogues and cemeteries, will need to wear a yarmulke (skullcap), usually offered at the entrance.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Krakow but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and Jet2 Holidays*. These are the best tours of Krakow from our trusted partners*.
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